How to Change Oil and Oil Filter on Ford F-150 (1990s to Present)

Changing the engine oil and oil filter on a Ford F-150 is one of the most important and easiest maintenance tasks you can do yourself, regardless of whether you have a classic 1990s truck or a brand-new 2025 model. The process has stayed surprisingly similar across more than three decades, but engine layouts, filter locations, and recommended oils have evolved. This guide covers every major F-150 generation from the ninth-gen (1992–1996) “OBS” trucks through the fourteenth-gen (2021–present), including all common engines: 4.9L inline-six, 4.6L/5.4L Triton V8s, 5.0L Coyote, 3.5L EcoBoost, 2.7L EcoBoost, 3.3L Ti-VCT V6, Power Stroke diesels, and even the older 7.3L/6.0L/6.4L diesels when they appeared in Super Duty-based models.

Why Doing It Yourself Still Makes Sense

Oil change intervals have stretched from 3,000–5,000 miles in the 1990s to 7,500–10,000 miles or more today with modern full-synthetic oils, but fresh oil is still the cheapest insurance against expensive engine repairs. Doing it at home saves $50–$150 every time and lets you inspect the undercarriage for leaks or damage.

Recommended Motor Oils by Engine (1992–2025)

Note: Always check the owner’s manual or the oil filler cap for the exact spec on your year. Ford moved almost everything except older 4.6L/5.4L 2V to 5W-30 in the last decade.

Tools You’ll Need (Universal for All Years)

- Floor jack and jack stands (or ramps)

- 13 mm or 15 mm wrench (drain plug on most 1992–2010)

- 36 mm wrench or large oil filter wrench (cartridge filters on 2011+)

- Oil filter wrench (varies by year – see below)

- Drain pan (at least 8 qt capacity)

- Funnel

- Rags and gloves

- Torque wrench (optional but recommended – most drain plugs 20–25 ft-lb)

- New crush washer (aluminum gasket) for drain plug – highly recommended every change

Ninth & Tenth Generation (1992–2003) – OBS and Early PN-96 Trucks

• Oil filter location: Classic spin-on canister hanging vertically under the engine on the driver’s side, just behind the front axle. Extremely easy access from underneath – no skid plates in base models.

• Best way to reach it: Drive the front wheels up on ramps or jack the front end. The filter unscrews by hand or with a standard band-style or cup-style 74–76 mm / 14-flute filter wrench.

• Drain plug: Faces rear, 15 mm head on most 4.9L/5.0L/5.8L and early 4.6L/5.4L.

• Capacity: 6 quarts with filter change.

• Pro tip: On high-mileage 1992–1996 trucks, replace the rubber oil cooler lines if they’re leaking – common failure.

2004–2008 (Eleventh Gen) & 2009–2014 (Twelfth Gen)

• Oil filter location: Still a spin-on canister, but moved slightly forward and up on the 5.4L 3V and 4.6L 3V engines. On 2004–2008 it’s on the passenger side low; on 2009–2014 it moved to the in front of the engine, still easy.

• Access: Ramps or jack stands. Use a 74 mm / 14-flute cup wrench or a three-jaw oil filter wrench.

• Drain plug: 13 mm head now.

• Capacity: 7 quarts (5.4L & 6.2L), 6 quarts (4.6L).

• Common issue: 2004–2008 5.4L 3V engines often have the two-piece oil filter adapter leak – check while you’re under there.

2011–2014 Early 5.0L Coyote & 3.5L EcoBoost (Twelfth Gen Continued)

Big change in 2011: Ford switched to a top-mounted cartridge filter inside a plastic housing.

• Oil filter location: On top of the engine, driver’s side near the firewall. You open the black plastic cap (36 mm wrench) and pull the cartridge straight up.

• Best way: No need to go underneath at all for the filter – you can change it from the top in the engine bay in 5 minutes. Drain plug still underneath (13 mm).

• Capacity: 8.8 quarts (3.5L EcoBoost), 7.7 quarts (5.0L Coyote).

• Tools: 36 mm shallow socket or dedicated Ford oil filter wrench (Motorcraft FL-500S / FL-2051S style).

2015–2020 (Thirteenth Gen)

Same top-mounted cartridge system, but the housing moved slightly forward on some engines.

• Filter location: Still on top, but easier to reach on 2.7L and 3.5L EcoBoost – right in front of the driver.

• Access trick: On 2017–2020 trucks with the plastic engine cover, just pop the cover off (no tools). The 2.7L EcoBoost has a small plastic shield over the filter housing – two 8 mm bolts.

Capacity:

- 2.7L EcoBoost – 6 quarts

- 3.5L EcoBoost – 6.3 quarts

- 5.0L Coyote – 8.8 quarts (2020)

- 3.3L V6 – 6 quarts

2021–Present (Fourteenth Gen)

Identical procedure to 2015–2020, but the oil drain plug is now a one-time-use cartridge-style plug on some 2021+ models (similar to European cars). Ford sells the replacement plug with the gasket built in (part W718970-S441 or similar).

• Filter location: Still top-mounted cartridge, extremely easy from above.

• Access tip: On High-Output 3.5L EcoBoost (Raptor/HO trucks) the intercooler plumbing is tight – a 36 mm offset wrench helps.

Capacity:

- 3.5L EcoBoost – 6.3–7.7 quarts depending on oil cooler

- 5.0L – 8.8 quarts

- 3.3L V6 – 6 quarts

Diesel-Specific Notes (3.0L Power Stroke 2018–2022 & 6.7L in Super Duty-based)

• 3.0L Power Stroke: Spin-on filter on the top passenger side of the engine – very easy. Uses Motorcraft FL-2083 or equivalent. Drain plug underneath, 13 mm.

• Older 6.0L/6.4L/7.3L Power Stroke: Dual remote filters (one horizontal, one vertical) under the truck – use a 36 mm wrench for the caps. Always change both.

Quick Checklist Before You Button It Up

1. Run the engine 30–60 seconds after filling, shut off, wait 5 minutes, re-check level.

2. Reset the oil life monitor (Settings → Vehicle → Oil Life Reset on most 2011+). Read more here.

3. Torque drain plug to spec (usually 20 ft-lb on aluminum pans, 25 ft-lb on steel).

4. Inspect for leaks after the first drive.

Doing your own oil changes on an F-150, no matter the year, is still one of the most straightforward jobs in the pickup world. From the old-school spin-on filters of the 1990s to the modern top-cartridge EcoBoost setup, the core process hasn’t changed much in 30+ years – just grab the right wrench and the correct 5W-30 synthetic, and you’re good for another 7,500–10,000 miles.