How to replace frunk hood struts that won’t stay open

Tesla vehicles are renowned for their innovative design, including the front trunk, or frunk, which provides extra storage space without a traditional engine. However, over time, the hood struts that support the frunk lid can weaken, failing to hold it open securely. This issue is common in models like the Model 3, Model Y, Model S, and Model X, often due to wear from frequent use, extreme temperatures, or manufacturing variances. Replacing these struts restores functionality and prevents potential safety hazards, such as the lid slamming shut unexpectedly. This guide delves into the replacement process with detailed steps, ensuring Tesla owners can tackle the task confidently.

Identifying Symptoms of Failing Frunk Hood Struts

Before diving into replacement, recognize the signs of strut failure to confirm the problem. The most obvious indicator is the frunk lid sagging or closing on its own after being lifted. In milder cases, it might hold partially but require manual support to stay fully open. Owners of older Tesla models, particularly those exposed to harsh weather conditions like intense heat or freezing cold, report this issue more frequently. For instance, in regions with high humidity, corrosion can accelerate degradation, while in colder climates, the gas pressure inside the struts diminishes, reducing lift force.

Check for visual cues as well: inspect the struts for oil leaks, which signal internal seal failure, or bent rods that might result from accidental impacts. Listen for unusual creaking sounds when opening the frunk, as this could indicate friction from worn components. Tesla's diagnostic tools, accessible via the vehicle's touchscreen under the service menu, might not directly flag strut issues, but monitoring battery health is wise since low voltage can indirectly affect powered components, though struts are typically mechanical. If the problem persists across multiple openings, it's time to proceed with replacement rather than temporary fixes like propping the lid with a stick, which poses risks.

Gathering Essential Tools and Replacement Parts

Preparation is key to a smooth replacement. Start by sourcing compatible struts. For Tesla Model 3 and Y, part number 1090355-00-A is common for the left side and 1090356-00-A for the right, but verify via Tesla's official parts catalog or VIN-specific searches to match your vehicle's year and trim. Aftermarket options from brands like Stabilus or Monroe offer cost savings—often 30-50% less than OEM—while maintaining similar durability, with some featuring reinforced pistons for better longevity.

Tools required include a flathead screwdriver or trim removal tool to pry off retaining clips without damaging plastic panels. A 10mm socket wrench or Torx T25 bit is essential for models with bolted mounts, though most Tesla struts use clip-on ball joints. Gloves protect against sharp edges, and a flashlight aids visibility in the tight frunk area. For safety, a prop rod or adjustable support stand is crucial to hold the lid during work—never rely on faulty struts alone.

Budget for additional items like lubricant spray (silicone-based to avoid damaging rubber seals) and anti-seize compound for reinstallation. If your Tesla has an active warranty, check eligibility for free replacement, as some extended service plans cover wear items. Purchasing from reputable suppliers ensures struts with at least 50,000 cycle ratings, far exceeding typical usage.

Preparing Your Tesla for the Replacement Procedure

Park the vehicle on a level surface and engage the parking brake. Disable the power frunk if equipped (via the app or touchscreen settings) to prevent accidental activation. Open the frunk fully and secure it with a prop rod—Tesla provides one in the toolkit, often stored in the rear trunk. Clean the area around the struts with a microfiber cloth to remove debris that could contaminate new parts.

For Model S and X with falcon-wing doors or powered lifts, ensure the system is in manual mode. Disconnect the 12V battery if working near electrical components, but this isn't always necessary for basic strut swaps. Note the orientation of the old struts: the piston end typically attaches to the lid, while the cylinder mounts to the body. Take photos for reference to avoid misalignment during installation.

Ambient temperature matters—perform the task in moderate conditions, as cold weather can make plastic clips brittle, increasing breakage risk. If your Tesla has aftermarket modifications like a frunk cooler, remove them temporarily to access the struts freely.

Step-by-Step Replacement Process

Begin with the driver's side strut for easier access. Support the frunk lid firmly with one hand or the prop rod. Use the flathead screwdriver to depress the retaining clip on the ball joint at the lid end—gently pry it outward while pulling the strut off the ball stud. Repeat for the body-side connection. Avoid twisting the strut excessively, as this can damage the internal gas chamber.

Inspect the mounting points for wear; if the ball studs are loose, tighten them with the appropriate tool or consider replacement studs (part 1027076-00-A for many models). Apply a thin layer of lubricant to the new strut's ball sockets for smooth engagement.

Install the new strut by aligning the cylinder end to the body mount first—push until the clip snaps securely. Then, attach the piston end to the lid, ensuring a firm click. Test by gently lifting and lowering the lid a few times; it should hold at full extension without sagging. Repeat for the passenger side, noting that access might require leaning over the vehicle.

For Model X owners, the process is similar but involves more clearance due to the larger frunk. If clips break during removal—a common occurrence with aged parts—replacement clips are inexpensive and available in packs. The entire procedure typically takes 15-30 minutes for experienced DIYers, but allocate an hour if it's your first time.

Testing and Verifying Proper Functionality

After installation, cycle the frunk open and closed at least 10 times to bed in the new struts. Observe for even lift on both sides; asymmetry might indicate mismatched parts or improper seating. In humid environments, apply a water-repellent spray to the struts to prevent future corrosion.

Use Tesla's app to monitor any error codes post-replacement, though struts are non-electronic and unlikely to trigger alerts. If the lid feels heavier initially, this is normal as new struts have higher gas pressure—give it a few days to settle. Measure the open height against specifications: for Model 3, it should be around 45-50 degrees; deviations could signal installation errors.

Common Challenges and Solutions During Replacement

Encountering stuck clips? Warm them with a hairdryer to increase flexibility without melting plastic. If a strut won't disengage, apply penetrating oil sparingly and wait 5 minutes before retrying. For vehicles with paint protection film, use plastic pry tools to avoid scratches.

Mismatched strut lengths can cause binding—always double-check part numbers. In rare cases, underlying issues like a bent frunk frame from minor collisions mimic strut failure; inspect for dents or misalignment. If replacement doesn't resolve the problem, test gas pressure with a specialized gauge, though this requires professional equipment.

Extending the Lifespan of New Frunk Hood Struts

To maximize durability, avoid slamming the frunk—close it gently to reduce shock loads. Park in shaded areas during hot weather to prevent gas expansion issues. Periodically clean the struts with a damp cloth, avoiding harsh chemicals that degrade seals.

Apply UV protectant sprays annually for outdoor-stored vehicles. Monitor usage patterns: frequent short trips with frunk access accelerate wear, so consider alternatives like rear trunk storage for daily items. Tesla's over-the-air updates occasionally optimize power systems, indirectly benefiting mechanical components, so keep software current.

Recognizing When Professional Assistance Is Needed

While DIY replacement is straightforward, certain scenarios warrant expert intervention. If your Tesla is under lease, unauthorized modifications might void terms—consult the agreement. Complex models like the Cybertruck with unique frunk designs may require specialized tools.

Signs of electrical integration, such as powered struts in premium trims, necessitate Tesla service center visits to avoid warranty invalidation. Persistent issues post-DIY could stem from ECU calibration needs, best handled by certified technicians. Costs for professional replacement range from $100-300, including parts, offering peace of mind for less mechanically inclined owners.